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Calendar Contact Us Policies coxes.com 2001
- 2010
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| Following are tips,
techniques, questions and
replies regarding 'soft' or 'lead' soldering. This is the type of
soldering that is done in stained glass work but artists are now
making great photo charms (find out how here)
with the same tools and techniques. If you have any questions, please
email Christine Cox.*
|
Soldering Troubleshooting
and FAQ
9/04 Related Links: |
| Soldering is a Learned Skill | First, soldering is a learned skill. Don't assume that you'll be perfect the first time out. Give yourself time to learn and you'll enjoy it more once you've mastered it. |
| Start Up
Never, never, never dip a hot |
While working
make a circle of the following goods around you: copper foil tape, damp
synthetic sponge in dish, flux, roll of solder, iron stand and iron. In
front of you is your work in some kind of holder or
vise. Put some flux in a separate
dish and then dip your cold soldering iron into it. This will
help protect your tip from oxidizing while it heats up. Cut and clean the glass with rubbing alcohol and a lintless cloth (I use microfiber). Plug in the iron (with the tip in place). While the iron heats, neatly line the edges of the glass with copper foil tape, burnish and then stabilize your collage for soldering. Use a Q-tip to flux all the copper foil tape on the photo frame. Don't forget the front and back. Remove the hot iron from the stand and quickly wipe both sides of the tip on the sponge. Now either "chase" the solder down the side of the photo frame or just pick some solder off the roll with the tip of the hot iron and then "flow" it down the tape. Wait a second for the solder to set and then carefully turn the frame in the vise or whatever holder you've chosen, and then solder again. Repeat until all sides are soldered. Touch up the front and back of your charm and then solder a jump ring to the top to act as a bale. |
| Tip Doesn't Hold Solder | The first rule
is to keep your iron's tip clean (as in silver) at all times. The
number one mistake I see students make is to let their tip get hot
without solder on it and then the tip oxidizes. Once the tip is oxidized
it is much more reluctant to accept solder. While an oxidized tip can be
cleaned, it's really a pain and it's easy to avoid. Here's a rule to never forget: Heat + Oxygen = Oxidation If you rob the iron of either ingredient it will not oxidize. So, it you have solder on the tip at all times, oxygen can't get to it and therefore it can't oxidize. If you ever see black color appearing on your tip, clean it with a damp synthetic sponge and then immediately tin (coat with solder) your tip. |
| Cleaning Tip | I've put
up directions for how to use a sal
ammoniac block |
| Copper Foil Tape Doesn't Stick | Before putting
the copper foil tape onto the glass be sure it's free of cutter oil by
cleaning it with rubbing alcohol.
Burnish the tape well with a wooden fid or some other implement. I tend to use the back of my thumb nail but that's not necessarily the best idea and it can ruin your nails. You'll want to avoid touching the iron directly onto the copper foil tape because if the tape gets too hot the adhesive on the back gets ruined and the tape will no longer stick to the glass. Don't use too much flux as it can ruin the adhesive on the copper foil tape. I like to use a Q-Tip to apply it and brush from the center of the tape out, toward the edges. The idea is to keep the brush from directing the flux underneath the tape. Some people prefer to use Gel Flux so that it stays in place a little better. |
| How to make a jump ring
bail Find out how to close a
jump ring securely |
Get ready
because this all happens very quickly. Your piece should be in a Mini Vise or otherwise secured, with the place where you want the bail facing up. Use 2 pairs of pliers to open and the
close the jump ring securely. Now touch the loaded iron tip to the fluxed solder on the piece. As soon as you see the solder melt, lower your other hand and (with the pliers) lower the jump ring into the melted solder. Now FREEZE long enough for the solder to set up and then let go of the ring with the pliers. Don't like it? Remelt the solder with your iron and try again. I recommend making a junky soldered piece and putting the ring on over and over until you get really good at it. |
| Rheostat | Q: I
have a Weller 100 iron and want a taller bead on my work. Can I use a
rheostat? A: No. The Weller 100 iron is "temperature controlled" which means that there is a controller built into the handle of the iron that regulates the temperature by turning the iron off and on (the same way your home oven works). It's possible that a rheostat can conflict with that task and cause problems with the iron. The correct way to get a taller solder bead on your work when using the Weller 100 is to use a different tip than the iron came with. There are 2 options and it's just a matter of preference which you use.
If you are using a soldering iron which isn't temperature controlled (such as the Inland/Choice irons we sell) you can use a rheostat to regulate the temperature of your iron tip. Q. Where should I set my rheostat for soldering? This depends on if you'd like a tall bead or a thin film of solder. I usually have students start with their rheostat set on 5 and then we adjust up or down depending on their iron's heat output. |
| Solder | Q: I
want my pieces to be bright silver like yours and Sally Jean
Alexander's, but they're kind of dull. What am I doing wrong? A: Aha! The secret ingredient is . . . SilverGleem Solder! It has real silver in it so it has that shine you love. Other solders, such as 50/50 or 60/40 don't have any silver in them (they are made up of tin and lead) so they have a dull pewter-y look to them. If you are using SilverGleem you'll probably find that you need a higher heat than when using leaded solders. If you are using a Weller 100 iron use a 700º tip. If you are using a non-temperature controlled iron and a rheostat, turn your rheostat up one or two numbers on the dial. If you are using lead came, 50/50 is usually a good color match. |
| Flux | Flux does
several things; it breaks the surface tension of the solder so that it
can flow, it gives the solder a path to follow, it cleans oxides off of
the copper foil tape and it prevents oxygen from getting to the copper
during heating. Some fluxes are acids so it's important to keep your work area and your hands clean. Use baking soda or dish soap to neutralize the acids. Some people prefer Gel Flux to Liquid. The main advantage is that it stays in place on the copper so you'll be less apt to get flux under the tape. |
Note: The answers on this page are compiled from my own experience and the experience of other teachers, vendors and friends. I cannot take responsibility if you have a problem. Please research your project, techniques and tools thoroughly before beginning.
Since 11/17/04